Over the years, I have developed a great relationship with my tailor, especially since I am a faithful thrift store shopper. Therefore, I visit him quite often so that he can alter all of my thrift store finds. However, when I first started getting my clothes tailored, I paid close attention to the fit of my jackets and neglected the fit of my trousers. As a result, my pants would always be too long or too baggy in the leg. So I decided to experiment with different fits until I finally found my favorite (pictured above).
In the photos above, also seen here, I experimented with a fuller cut and a 2-in. cuff. However, after a couple weeks of wear, I felt that a 2 in. cuff was too big for my 5’8’ frame. I also preferred a more aggressive taper in the legs. Therefore, I took them back to my tailor to make the proper alterations.
After experimenting with different fits, I went from a 2 in. cuff to a 1 1/2 in. cuff. In my opinion, a smaller cuff compliments my height and drapes cleanly over my shoes. I also decided to go from a 8 in. leg opening to a 6 3/4 in. leg opening. Of course there is nothing wrong with a fuller cut trouser, it is really just a matter of preference. However, I believe that a streamlined fit compliments my physique.
In the photo above, also seen here, my trousers were too long and as a result there were too many breaks. Essentially a break is the horizontal line in the fabric that happens where your pants hit your shoes. The length of your pant legs usually determines how noticeable the break is.
Therefore, I shortened them about 2 in. and added a 1 in. cuff. In my opinion, this is the most flattering length for my body. A shorter hem allows the pants to drape cleanly and create a streamlined silhouette. It also visually elongates the silhouette, and creates an illusion of added height, all while subtly showing off my freshly polished shoes. As my style continues to evolve I am sure that I will continue to experiment with different fits, but that is why it is so important to develop a good relationship with your tailor. Eventually, he or she will become familiar with your style and alter your clothes specifically to your liking.
As always, thanks for reading!
The Dapper Advisor