Fundamentals of Apparel Construction

Learning the fundamentals of apparel construction…Read about it on
After earning a Bachelors degree in Criminal Justice, as well as a Masters degree in Higher Education and Student Affairs (both from Buffalo State College), I have decided to take my talents back to Buffalo State and further my education within the Fashion and Textile Technology department. This semester I will be learning about the fundamentals of apparel construction. This course outlines the basic beginning techniques of apparel construction using commercially available patterns and industrial sewing machines. It also introduces measuring techniques, fabric selection, fit and alterations. 

This past summer, I started tailoring some of my own clothes, in order to save some money on tailoring bills, seen here and here. However, after scouring the internet for more tutorial videos, I realized that I learned everything that was available online. Therefore, taking a course and building a relationship with a professor was my next best option. Especially since the actual course would be free of charge, its just one of the perks of working at a college.

Three basic stitches…BASTE…BACK…DIAGONAL
The first day of class was very informative, and I was probably the most excited student in the room. Those that know me well are familiar with how excited I get whenever I’m around swatch kits and other menswear related items. Therefore, you could only imagine how happy I was to be in a classroom setting, fully stocked with industrial sewing machines and students that share my passion.

After some brief introductions and a quick review of the syllabi, we started learning some simple hand stitching techniques. We used two sheets of white muslin fabric as a canvas. We learned how to perform a baste stitch, a back stitch and a diagonal stitch. The baste stitch is a relatively loose and it is a temporary stitch. It is commonly used in the beginning stages of a bespoke suit because it does not damage the fabric and it can it easily be removed. The back stitch is similar to the baste stitch in terms of it being temporary, however it just isn’t as loose. It is commonly used for making a quick repair for a ripped seam. The most interesting of the three hand stitches was the diagonal stitch. The professor explained that this style is most commonly used on the chest and lapel area of a bespoke suit jacket or sport coat, just like the one seen below.

Diagonal hand stitches seen in a bespoken suit jacketRead about it on
Needless to say I am extremely excited to finally be able to pursue my passion, and I will continue to share my progress as the semester continues.
As always thanks for reading and stay tuned for some upcoming brand collaborations!

Yours Truly,

Akil McLeod

The Dapper Advisor

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